What are the best dog foods and the worst dog foods to feed your large breed dog.?

by | Best Dog Foods, Best Dry Dog Food | 11 comments

Also, does any one know of any web sites withthis kind of info?

Science Diet, Iams, Pedigree, Purina, and the like is “junk food” – literally. They’re all chalked full of by-products, filelrs, and chemical preservatives. It’s the equivalency of always feeding your human child McDonald’s food. If you don’t believe me, read “The Science Diet Scam” by Mordanna at http://www.ourdogsonline.com/index.php?section=27

You’ll also finds more good information at The Dog Food Project ( http://www.dogfoodproject.com/ ).

There’s a lot of excellent holistic food out there like:

Addiction Pet Foods
Artemis
Avoderm
Back to Basics
Blue Buffalo
California Natural
Canidae
Canine Cavier
Castor & Pollux Pet Food
Chicken Soup for the Pet Lover’s Soul
Drs. Foster & Smith Pet Food
Eagle Pack
Evolve
Flint River Ranch
Fromm Family Pet Food
Great Life
Innova
Karma Organics
Life’s Abundance
Merrick
Natural Balance
Nature’s Recipe
Nature’s Variety
NutriSource
Newman’s Own Organics
O & M Pet Food
Pet Promise
PHD Pet Food
Pinnacle
Premium Edge
Pro Pac
Royal Canin
Sojos
Solid Gold
TimberWolf Organics
Ultra Holitic
Wellness
Wysong

among many others. If you want a full list with URLs, E-Mail me and I’ll be happy to send it.

Comments

11 Comments

  1. Shay P

    I feed Science Diet, the vet reccomended it. Never feed your dog vegetarian food. It’s cruel, no matter what PETA says.
    References :

  2. mamabird

    iams is the best
    pedigree and purina is good too
    anything less expensive than that is not good
    References :

  3. sierragreywolf

    Though my dog is considered a small breed, I feed him IAMS. He seems to thrive well on this an maintains a good weight and coat.
    References :

  4. iIuvdogs*:) =)

    iams is the best
    pedigree and purina is good too
    References :

  5. coogansbluff51

    Each dog may or may not do well on a certain food. We feed Diamond Hi pro to a couple and Purina Pro Plan Chicken and Rice to the others. The low cost supermarket or feed store brands will result in greater stool volumne due to less assimiliation of the food
    References :

  6. chippychip

    eukinuba is the best that is what all the show dogs eat and sites show like the akc show that that is the healthiest food for them and keep them on DRY food only and expensive it is worth it rather than a sick dog or dead dog please don’t have a dead dog lol umm they get to dependant on the not dry food the dry just sits out so they can eat it when ever the wet they have to be feed so often so if you aren’t home all the time then they will starve to death NO MORE DEAD DOGS!!!! lol umm eukinuba all the way though that is what all the breeders recomend well like all the maltese breeders that we went to i guess each dog can be a little different but otherwise iams is 2nd place then the pedigree then nothing that is good for them don’t feed them any thing less than that
    References :

  7. Kandra

    I agree that pedigree is wonderful. I have a pit that is 6years old and about 100lbs and a boxer that is 5 months oldand about 30lbs. They have enough weight, shiny coats and seem content eating it.
    References :

  8. Kimmie

    There are several amazing brands of food available in a pet food shop, none named here thusfar.
    Iams uses slaughterhouse waste and indigestible fibres and fish oils..giving dogs a horrid body odor and huge #2’s! (Iams wouldn’t send me pics of their food plant…go figure!!)
    Purina/ProPlan hardly uses meat at all, mostly grains, some indigestible…dogs NEED meat…!! Again, huge poops and dull skin/coat!
    Science Diet has been nicknamed Science Death – dogs can’t process pork fat yet they list it as a major ingredient. SD also uses ground grain sorghum – a cheap low quality pig food !
    ‘Why pay BIG BUCKS for these products? What are you really getting? Nice TV advertisements and radio announcements? Not worth it since Iams was bought by Proctor and Gamble, and Science Diet was bought by Colgate Palmolive!!!
    What you want to find is a product that contains MEAT as its’ first,second and preferably, third ingredients. Keep the grains and fibres further down the list. Yes, dogs need them, but not in filler quantities.Dogs can’t digest corn any easier than people do, think about it! Make sure the food contains veggies. Make sure it contains proper omega 3 and 6 fatty acids in the form of salmon oil or herring oil. Other fish oils can’t be digested well and usually just make the dog smell. Look for glucosamine and chondroitin in large-breed foods. Look for words like "natural" "holistic" or "human grade".
    Brands we sell most are: Nutro Ultra, Natural Balance, Performatrin Ultra, K9 Plus, Nutram, Nutrience, Eagle Pack. Talk to people from local shops about these foods. Once a dog has been on them for minimum of 2 months, the results are very obvious! Best of Luck
    References :

  9. vol_jadzia

    Science Diet, Iams, Pedigree, Purina, and the like is "junk food" – literally. They’re all chalked full of by-products, filelrs, and chemical preservatives. It’s the equivalency of always feeding your human child McDonald’s food. If you don’t believe me, read "The Science Diet Scam" by Mordanna at http://www.ourdogsonline.com/index.php?section=27

    You’ll also finds more good information at The Dog Food Project ( http://www.dogfoodproject.com/ ).

    There’s a lot of excellent holistic food out there like:

    Addiction Pet Foods
    Artemis
    Avoderm
    Back to Basics
    Blue Buffalo
    California Natural
    Canidae
    Canine Cavier
    Castor & Pollux Pet Food
    Chicken Soup for the Pet Lover’s Soul
    Drs. Foster & Smith Pet Food
    Eagle Pack
    Evolve
    Flint River Ranch
    Fromm Family Pet Food
    Great Life
    Innova
    Karma Organics
    Life’s Abundance
    Merrick
    Natural Balance
    Nature’s Recipe
    Nature’s Variety
    NutriSource
    Newman’s Own Organics
    O & M Pet Food
    Pet Promise
    PHD Pet Food
    Pinnacle
    Premium Edge
    Pro Pac
    Royal Canin
    Sojos
    Solid Gold
    TimberWolf Organics
    Ultra Holitic
    Wellness
    Wysong

    among many others. If you want a full list with URLs, E-Mail me and I’ll be happy to send it.
    References :

  10. romance_german_shepherds

    THE BEST food for your dog is RAW
    here are some things you should know about kibble

    10 Secrets Pet Food Companies Don’t Want You to Know
    ===================================================================

    1. Pet food is NEVER mostly meat.

         Many ads suggest that it is…      In order to list a meat source
         first on the bag label pet food companies resort to a variety of
         gimmicks.  Here are a few to get you thinking.  1st Listing a "wet"
         ingredient in what ends up being an essentially dry finished product.  
         Wet meat gets a lot lighter when the moisture is cooked out.   This
         labelling loophole is blatantly deceptive to the general public.  All
         ingredients should be weighed and listed in dry weight equivalents
         for you to know truly how much of each makes up the ration.  If the
         label lists, "chicken" it means chicken weighed when wet.  Drop 75%
         of the value.  If, on the other hand, it says, "chicken meal" they
         play fairly.  If it says, "meat (any type) by-product meal" or "meat
         (any type) by-products" it was never meat to begin with.  Find another
         food.    Another gimmick is to "split carbohydrates" (grains) into
         multiple parts to get the "meat" to list first.  Label ingredients are
         listed in descending order by weight.  So, If  you have 10 lbs. of
         chicken meal and 25 lbs. of rice, which should appear first on the
         label?   Chicken of course! (if you want people to buy the stuff).  
         Here’s how it’s done…
         1st- CHICKEN MEAL, 2nd- GROUND RICE, 3rd- RICE BRAN, 4th- RICE GLUTEN. 
         Pretty sneaky and obviously deceptive unless you know the trick.  Rice
         Flour, Brewer’s Rice and Rice ala Ronny could also have been listed if
         they really wanted to be fancy.   A related tactic is to use a variety
         of grains with different names to get meat listed first.  This is
         slightly more valid since they have different amino acid profiles and
         are truly different ingredients.   Grains cost a lot less than meat. 
         Meat "by-products" cost a lot less than meat.  Both also have considerably
         less food value.  The last gimmick for now is the campaign to convince
         the public that meat by-products and meat are just about the same thing. 
         Hmm… "Honey, I’m having a ribeye steak tonight and you’re having a nice
         pile of by-products, ok?"   "Would you like the chicken breast or the
         intestine-cartilage-beak medley with your rice, Bob?"  "Well gee Dear,
         doesn’t really make any difference to me, they all sound equally delicious,
         nutritious and healthy!"  By definition, by-products may contain anything
         from the specified animal except, (in the case of chicken), feathers and
         feces and, (in the case of beef), hoof, hide and feces.  Meat and fat are
         separated out first because they are costlier and are therefore not
         present in any appreciable quantity.  What’s left is the bones, tendons,
         cartilage, beaks, feet and innards. Proudly displayed and masqueraded
         as meat.  A pet food bag is not a place for dumping stuff of unknown 
         nutritional value.  Some foods even use the term  , "SELECT by-products".  
         All these contortions serve one purpose;  To make you think that you’re
         getting more meat than you really are in your bag of pet food.  After all,
         who’d pay $35 for a bushel of corn?!  Well, keep reading!

         

    2. The cooking process used in pet foods KILLS off a vital component: enzymes.

         In order to eliminate bacteria and make cutesy shapes that pets care
         nothing about, processing temperatures in excess of 160 degrees F are used
         to extrude or bake your pet’s food.  So what?  Well, glad you asked.  This
         places the entire burden for digestion on your pet’s pancreas to supply the
         enzymes necessary for breaking down nutrients for absorption.  In nature,
         this is far from the case.  Animals naturally follow the path of "least
         digestive resistance" in the wild.  Consider the fox who catches a rabbit. 
         First item on the menu is the contents of the gut.  Let the rabbit do the
         digesting and enjoy!  The rabbit spent hours nibbling grasses and grains
         readying them for the fox’s easy absorption of carbohydrates.  Quick and
         cheap fuel.  Next the fox buries or hides the rest to stew a spell.  What
         we call, "turning rancid" the fox calls, "just getting better".  In a couple
         days, the live enzymes in the rabbit meat have broken it down into easily
         digested protein.  Notice how no fire was used in this process?  For dessert,
         a little bone gnawing for the marrow, the calcium, and the teeth cleaning,
         and it’s naptime.  Left for the lower animals in the hierarchy are most of
         the by-products and the hide.  Let’s get back to your pet.
         In puppies and kittens, the pancreas is usually robust and up to the task
         of supplying sufficient digestive enzymes to make dead food somewhat useable
         and fulfill it’s other vital functions.  With age, however, pancreatic
         function is weakened and often can’t keep up with this undue burden.  If the
         pet food fed day in and day out is of low nutritional value to begin with,
         the taxing effect on the system will be all the greater and the pancreas
         will most likely give up that much sooner.  The consequences to your pet’s
         health are too broad in scope to cover here.

    3. Giving "real food" aka "table scraps" is the RIGHT thing to do!

         Stepping on a lot of toes here to smash the myth that you should only
         feed the stuff from the bag and nothing else ever, PERIOD.  What is it
         they are afraid of anyway?  That your pet will learn to beg?  Unlearn
         that.  That your pet won’t eat the chaff they call "food" after tasting
         the real deal?  Probably.  Or that it will throw the delicate balance of
         their finely tuned "nutrition" out of whack somehow?  He He Hoo, hardly. 
         Here’s the scoop…  Providing real food (not potato chips or other junk
         food) in its raw form counteracts some of the deficit that can be caused
         by only feeding commercially prepared pet food.  It can provide the living
         enzymes to make digestion an easy rather than burdensome process.  But,
         don’t just go wild and throw everything in the feeding trough.  Good bets
         for pets are raw carrots, broccoli, yoghurt, cheese, garlic and meats. 
         Cooked oatmeal, rice, corn, squash and the like are fine too.  Don’t feed
         raw grains, legumes, potatoes, onions, celery or chocolate which are either
         unusable or unhealthy.  If you aren’t comfortable with  raw meat and fish,
         don’t do it.  Keep in mind, they aren’t people and have an entirely
         different gastro-intestinal system than we do.  Introduce new foods a
         little at a time about three times a week to start and give your pet’s
         pancreas a much needed break.

    4. Most "vet recommended" foods pay mightily for the "honour".

         Does it matter that the majority of vets know very little about pet
         nutrition?  The public is told to, "Ask your vet".  The vet is told by
         the pet food companies, "we’ll send you to Hawaii for a week of golf
         if you sell and endorse XYZ brand pet food".  In school, vets-to-be could
         ELECT to take an overview course in animal nutrition.  Or not.  There have
         been changes of late to make this required study.  AS IT WELL SHOULD BE! 
         You are miles ahead if you understand the pet food label yourself and take
         the time to learn some basic nutritional concepts.  It’s not that
         complicated!  Find out for yourself, trust your own judgement and ignore
         what people say who are getting paid to say it.

    5. The #1 vet recommended brand is probably the #1 worst pet food value.

         Without mentioning any names, if it lists corn as the first ingredient on
         the label and gets blasted by the competition for it, you know the company. 
         Read the label!  Compare it to the cheapest stuff you can find.  There
         isn’t a dimes worth of difference in most cases.  How much does it cost
         them to make a 40 lb. bag of this stuff you may wonder?  Right?  Sit down. 
         How about less than $3 including the cost of the bag?  How much does the
         duped public shell out for the bushel of corn and peanut shells most
         recommended by vets?  About $35.  "Have a nice flight to Maui, Dr. Cutter
         and thanks again for your support".

    6. Feeding "Soft-Moist" diets will cut your pet’s life expectancy in half.

         Thankfully, these foods are on the steep decline but aren’t gone yet. 
         Perhaps killing your customers isn’t a good way to develop long term brand
         loyalty.  These toxic morsels are so loaded with chemicals to stay soft
         and prevent molding and so laden with sugar to cover the harsh chemical
         taste, they rip a pet’s insides out.  The sweetness is addictive and
         you’ll hear owners say, "Fifi just won’t eat anything else".  Well, then
         better buy the small bag because who knows how long Fifi will be eating at
         all?  Anybody feeding this garbage should stop at once and the manufacturers
         of it should be faced with a class action.

    7. Many companies have "slithered" away from using ETHOXYQUIN.

         The once popular, and staunchly defended as safe, preservative (antioxidant)
         called "Ethoxyquin" has been mostly abandoned  because of "hushed" litigation
         and settlements with professional breeders.  It formerly was championed by
         pet food manufacturers (and others) as an advanced and healthy inclusion in
         pet food in an attempt to hide the fact that it was never intended to be
         eaten,  much less on a daily basis. It was originally formulated as a rubber
         stabilizer and a color retention agent.  Tires stayed pliable and spices
         stayed red.  Despite efforts to get it approved as a food stabilizing agent
         in people food,  it is only allowed for extremely limited application with
         colored spices.  The people who know the devastating truth about this
         ingredient when eaten daily by pets have been paid off and forced to never
         tell their stories.  There are innumerable instances of stillbirth, sudden
         liver failure, kidney dysfunction, permanent pigment changes, tumors and
         death thought to be caused by the addition of this wonder substance to pet
         food starting in about 1987. Much of the talk about ethoxyquin has quieted
         since the major pet food companies jumped off the bandwagon and switched to
         safer (and less legally troublesome) preservatives like forms of vitamins
         E and C.  If they want the trust of the public, they should own up to their
         mistakes and come clean.  Fat chance.  All you’ll get is denial.

    8. Nature didn’t intend for pets to eat dry food devoid of enzymes.

         Convenience is paid for in reduced pet health.  Where is it written
         that your pet’s bowl has to be filled with chalk dry nuggets of
         quasi-nutritious ground up brown stuff?  We’ve been sold on a bad idea.
         We bought it because it made life easier.  Until the real bill comes,
         that is.  But doesn’t kibbled food make their teeth shiny and their
         breath fresh?  Won’t their teeth fall out if they eat soft stuff?
         Yeah, right.  Ever watch your dog eat?  Does it look like some kind
         of teeth cleaning exercise?  How about the cat?  Really getting the old
         gum line clean huh?  The truth about teeth cleaning is this…
         sticks, rocks, yarn, bones, toys and saliva primarily accomplish this
         task,  not food.  Commercial pet food has to be flavor enhanced with
         digest and sprayed-on fat to be even remotely attractive to your
         pet.  Without these palatability modifications, the old dry kibble
         would just sit there and get dusty.  People get paid big money to
         invent coatings to make your pet dive headfirst into the food bowl. 
         Because then you smile and feel like it must be healthy and that Fifi
         loves the food and you too so you’ll buy it again.  Right?   Remember,
         the fox didn’t go in search of a crunchy rabbit.  It ate the soft
         one and it has a dazzling smile and a fully charged pancreas.

    9. Some companies sneak sugar into pet food to hook your pet.
     
         Watch out for these guys!  They call it other things of course…
         (cane molasses, corn syrup) but it absolutely does not belong in
         your pet’s food bowl.  Processed sugars are foreign to dogs and
         cats and over the long term can result in obesity, tooth decay and
         diabetes (along with other maladies).  Until 2 years ago,  propylene
         glycol was being used as a sweet tasting preservative by those who
         must have cared much more about shelf life than about pet health. 
         Thankfully, it has finally been banned.  Pet food companies will
         tell you that the industry is tightly regulated and  that your pet’s
         health is being fastidiously protected.  Do you buy that one?  The
         FDA can’t even keep up with human food and didn’t lift a finger on
         behalf of the pet owners during the ethoxyquin debate.  The regulating
         body for pet food ingredients is AAFCO.   The American Association
         of Feed Control Officials.  The rules and definitions they adopt are
         made by those with vested interests and are enforced through
         "voluntary compliance".  The fox guards the rabbit hutch here.

    10. Almost all manufacturers use stool hardening agents in pet food.

         Convenience again triumphs over pet health.  Stool modifiers make
         clean up easier and mask the effects of nutrient malabsorption.  
         Who’s going to buy a pet food if you’ve got to SCRAPE up after
         your dog?  It’s easier to just stack those little bricks into a
         pile or kick them elsewhere.  Consider however the strain on your
         pet’s innards.  Would you put concrete mix in your pancake batter? 
         How about sawdust?  If you were dieting, would you mix ground peanut
         shells into your breakfast cereal?  Well, they do all that and more
         for your beloved pet.  See if any of these made it into your pet food
         bag:  sodium bentonite, powdered cellulose, beet pulp,  tomato
         (or any other) pomace, ground peanut shells?  The explanation for
         including these usually is that they are fibre sources for your pet’s
         well being.  Maybe a little truth there but not the real reason they
         are added.  Whole grains provide great fibre content.   A bit of bran
         would do well too.  The real goal is to make you buy the food again
         because clean up time is so easy and enjoyable with brand XYZ’s
         designer stools.  Before you do this to your pet, try it yourself
         for a few days.  One question to ask a company representative is
         this, "Aren’t there times when my pet needs to evacuate it’s system
         rapidly such as when a toxin is ingested or when the kitty or doggy
         flu comes around?  Is having a cork in there at all times really a
         good idea?  You’ll then likely hear mumbling about "Our research…"
         and "regulating intestinal transit time for optimal  nutrient
         absorption".  Do you buy that one?  If the food is good and fed
         properly, stools will be fine without forcing your pet to work a brick
         through their digestive and excretory systems.
    References :
    german shepherd breeder

  11. pcheesewhiz3

    Nope. Don’t know any web sites with reliable info. Personally, I don’t think I could recommend any particular dog food. I can only tell you how I go about about choosing a dog food. First I don’t buy the cheapest one. When I see a label that says Poochie-Poo Dog Food, I don’t grab it off the shelf. Secondly, I mix a little wet in with the dry, but not a whole lot. I only do that because I look at a bowl of dry ,and it looks awfully boring to me. But who know-maybe the dog doesn’t even care. Wet foot doesn’t particularly have a lot of nutrients in it. Every read the labels? They tell you how many cans to feed the dog and it always seems to be around 99 million. That is because most canned food is about 99% water. Dry foods are the best. I do try dog food that my vet tells me are best. If what you put in the front end of dog is mostly filler (cereal), you get more volume out the back end. The more protein and vegetable content, the less poo. I also judge the dog food by the shine in the dog’s coat and his energy level. I once bought a high dollar dog food, and the dog’s coat and eyes were dull. He also seemed listless. I changed the dog food, and the pooch was raring to go, had a sparkle in his eyes and and a shine to his coat. So I would say take your vet’s advice and see how the dog does with it.
    References :